Lenins of the world, unite!

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I don’t quite know what it is but whenever I have come across an old Lenin statue anywhere in the territories of the old Soviet Union I have usually not been able to resist taking a photograph. It may be it purely a matter of posterity – these things will not be there for ever. But perhaps it for other reasons – vague nostalgia for something I never had the opportunity to experience, or a sneaking regard for an idealistic yet flawed political system that had such indomitable self-belief? Another part of me acknowledges that I am drawn towards old Soviet statuary in the same way I am attracted to photogenic ruins: as revolutionary ghosts manifest in stone and concrete that serve as repositories for the recent past.

IMG_6856The countries of the former Soviet Union have widely differing attitudes to displaying representations of their erstwhile leader Vladimir Ilyich Lenin. The new Baltic countries and those of the Caucasus region, keen to sever any lasting connections with the USSR, tend to shun them completely – most of the old statuary has long been toppled and reduced to rubble or hardcore for roads. In a few cases, like the irony-heavy Grutas Park in Lithuania, the statues have been collected together and repurposed to make a joke of the past by creating a sort of Soviet-era theme park. This comes complete with statues, barbed wire, military music and canteens that serves ‘Soviet-style’ food – dishes that feature cabbage, beetroot and, of course, vodka.  Such a move is motivated by nostalgia to some extent, but it is also undoubtedly partly taking the piss.

IMG_7900Ukraine, which once had an impressive number of Lenin statues, has got rid of up to 500 of these over the past couple of years, an ideological casualty of the civil war and perceived Russian aggression in that divided land. Currently many still remain in place but President Petro Poroshenko has recently signed a bill setting a six-month deadline for the removal of the country’s remaining communist monuments and so their days are probably numbered – in the pro-European west of the country at least.

IMG_5854Elsewhere, where Soviet-era murals are attached to buildings or just too cumbersome to remove wholesale, the offending revolutionary faces are simply scratched away. I once saw a hillside in Uzbekistan where a Lenin-shaped ghost image was left where a giant face had been erased from the landscape. Once lovingly marked out in stone, the image of the revolutionary leader was no longer needed – or indeed desired – in a newly independent country presided over by a self-elected president-for-life. I have seen much the same sort of thing in Georgia – murals of Soviet period scientific achievements in which Lenin’s face has been clumsily redacted by means of a chisel. Curiously, local boy Stalin – a far more murderous character than Lenin ever was – is still revered in some circles in that country. A museum to the ‘Man of Steel’ – more a shrine of very dubious taste – still stands at his hometown of Gori together with a statue that used to have pride of place in the town’s main square.

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Russia has long condemned Stalin’s brutal excesses but his predecessor Lenin can still to be seen in more or less every town and city the length and breadth of the land. The same can also be said for Belarus, Russia’s closest ally in Europe. Kyrgyzstan – the Central Asian country I know best – is much the same, the only only place in Central Asia where it would appear that the recent Soviet past is not thoroughly scorned. Weather-beaten statues and busts of Lenin can still be seen in most towns in the country, although these are now slowly being usurped by shiny heroic representations of national heroes like Manas and Kurmanjan Datka.

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Photographs from top to bottom (all ©Laurence Mitchell)

Lenin and bust in Soviet sculpture park, Moscow, Russia

Lenin waving at civic buildings, Yekaterinberg, Russia

Lenin in taxi-hailing mode, Irkutsk, Siberia, Russia

Nonchalant Lenin, Pskov, Russia

Redacated Lenin face on Soviet space travel memorial, Akhaltsikhe, Georgia

Lenin and friends, Russian flea market, Tbilisi, Georgia

Dynamic ‘caped crusader’ Lenin, Tirasapol, Transdniestr

Lenin the theatrical performer (note the redacted face on plinth), Kochkor, Kyrgyzstan

Lenin the thinker, Jalal-Abad, Kyrgyzstan

Lenin points out the lofty Ala-Too mountains beyond the city (not any more though, he’s been moved and now faces the other way), Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Stoic upright Lenin with Kyrgyzstan flag, Chaek, Kyrgyzstan

About East of Elveden

Hidden places, secret histories and unsung geography from the east of England and beyond
This entry was posted in Caucasus, Central Asia, Russia, Travel and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

12 Responses to Lenins of the world, unite!

  1. annindk says:

    Lovely collection! I also spot Lenins – I’ve seen two of these, but have you seen Lenin in Copenhagen? https://adriftindk.wordpress.com/2014/11/18/lenin-in-copenhagen/

  2. He certainly wasn’t short of a statue or two! (500 removed in Ukraine). Also like that image where his face has been removed and alongside the words: Nirvana, Slipknot, Korn.

    • Still plenty left, albeit not so widely spread geographically these days. Yes, I really like the Georgian monument too – stylised sputniks, space rockets and 1990s US rock band graffiti.

  3. dobraszczyk says:

    Great post and wonderful images! I visited the statue park on the edge of Budapest, which was also a ‘themed’ attraction, although without cabbage.

  4. Thanks, Paul. I’ve heard of the sculpture park on the edge of Budapest – the first of its kind I believe. Deeply ironic – apparently you can buy ring-pull cans of ‘Soviet-period air’ there.

  5. The nostalgia is fascinating although I keep reading about it’s all coming back into vogue as people hanker after the old empire and react against western neo–liberalism, especially amongst (but not solely) Russian ethnic minorities. Would love to go to Transnistria. Parks of old statues sound intriguing – maybe one day we should do it for our statues of empire!

  6. Dina says:

    This is a most impressive collection of Lenins, Laurence. And a very fine documentary of your extensive travels.🙂
    Greetings to you and Jackie from the Alps,
    you’d love it here, on the shore of the Königssee,🙂
    Dina

  7. Thank you, Dina. I suppose I am that sort of collector – one of images.

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